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jiufen

The other day some friends and I went by train and bus to Jiufen, a north-east area in upper Taiwan that was, apparently, the inspiration for some scenery in Miyazaki's movie SPIRITED AWAY. It was an excellent day. First, Ariel (name not changed, I have officially given up b/c I can't keep track anymore :p) and I met up at Taipei Main Station to take the local train to Xike, which was where Katie would hop on and join us.

The problem turned out to be that Ariel and I are great conversationalists and bad about paying attention, because instead of texting Katie to tell her we were almost at Xike, we texted her with "We're stopping at Xike now, are you here?!" and the answer turned out to be that no, Katie was not on the platform, so we hopped off and waited for her. Then we all chatted until another local train came, which we took to Keelung.

Keelung is not somewhere I've been before, but it's by the ocean and there was a harbor with an enormous cruise ship in it. It made me want to take a cruise, probably around Asia but maybe somewhere tropical. I've taken a crusie before but it was with someone else, and I'd like to go on one by myself, I think, just to see the sights and laze around.

Anyway, we took a bus up to Jiufen. The trip was full of skinny, winding, cliff-side roads that provide a little terror but excellent views. I talked alternately to Katie and Ariel, and Ariel and I mostly discussed what we wanted to do with our respective futures. It was nice-ish outside, a bit cloudy but with some sun, and all the mountains and flowers and trees reminded me, once again, I was in another country, one that is radically different from the Ohio I grew up in.

As a side note, I'm a little ready to go back home. I'd like to take a month off and soak up the USA, replenish myself before the next big adventure. In my mind I've already left Taiwan, a little, ready for the rest and relief of no work, no language barrier, just home and family and everything the way that I'm most familiar with.

Back to the trip: we finally arrived at Jiufen. It's a town that crawls up the mountains and digs itself in. It oozes photo ops. Not five feet from the bus stop was a cliff that offered a flawless view of the far-off bay, plus the mountains and a nearby temple.





We didn't have to get far to get to the tourist market, which was long, winding, mostly shielded from the elements by shop awnings, and very busy, it being Sunday.



There were tea shops, souvenir shops, stands selling all manner of street food, and lots of people. Ariel and I were listening for Japanese tourists and we weren't disappointed. Between the three of us we consumed two large pastries filled with taro and sweet potato paste, respectively. I bought a sausage that was apparently made with wild boar meat. Ariel knew of a cafe, which we found, and because the place was almost empty were were able to choose the table with the best view of the mountainside, overlooking the harbor and sprawling ocean in the distance.







We ordered food and drinks and stayed there chatting for quite a while. At last it got dark, which was what we were waiting for, and when we emerged from the cafe the famous red lanterns lining the market streets and roofs had been lit. People everywhere were taking pictures, and the market's darker corners took on a mystical quality.



Having now seen the sights, and knowing we had quite a journey home, we took the bus back to Keelung. There was a night market there, which we stopped at for a little more fun and some treats, which included an ice dessert that was cheap and delicious. I got lemon-flavored and it was like eating a lemonade icee.

Photobombers at Keelung night market.


At long last, we went back to the train station and took a train back. Katie hopped off at Xike and Ariel and I finished the journey back to Taipei Main. We ended up talking for quite a bit and I got home very late, but it didn't matter. I think we both had needed to come down from the excitement of the trip, and get used to the idea that we had to go back to work the next day.

Ever since I'd found out that Jiufen had inspired scenery in SPIRITED AWAY I'd been dying to see it, and I wasn't disappointed. It's a really cool place with gorgeous landscapes, and it has a unique flavor in its twisted streets and buildings piled on top of one another. I can see why it inspired Miyazaki.

These last few months will be my time of adventure, so I'll do my best to keep you posted of where I go!

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